Monday, February 16, 2015

Skincare when you have Oily, Acne-Prone Skin

If you have oily skin I imagine you share in my knowledge of how awesomely frustrating it can be. While everyone else is gushing about how fabulous and dewy this foundation and that moisturizer make them look, we sit back and think, "I wonder if my face can solve the oil crisis?"






Let me tell you a little bit about my skin and my skin-journey. I have a very oily T-Zone and acne-prone skin. But not just any acne, cystic acne. And not just one here and one there, but severe cystic acne. It started around the time I began high school. While everyone else got the bumpy red patches of acne on their cheeks I got these deep, painful cysts that would pop up everywhere. Some of my friends had the same, but they would have one or two on their skin at a time, max. I, on the other hand, had anywhere between 5-25 on my skin at a given time. All over my chin, around my nose and on my forehead. It was horrendous. No amount of washing my face, no special TV product gimmick, no amount of swearing or praying made it better. I had tried every face wash at every store I could find, I had tried Proactiv, I had tried Neutrogena Skin ID, I had paid for expensive scrubs, masks, treatments, and gels from higher-end skincare lines and still nothing worked.

Eventually, around the time I turned 18, I finally went to see my mom's dermatologist, who changed my life forever. I was very lucky that she was able to get me on the right track on the first try -- it was such a relief after years of failed tries. I had to take a pill every day and use a topical ointment on my face a few times a week (which is incredibly drying and makes you even more sun-sensitive, as did the pill, so sunscreen became even more important!). As she promised, with my diligent following of the instructions provided to me, I began to see results even sooner than expected. Usually, they say wait 8-12 weeks to see improvements -- I was lucky enough to see huge improvements in just 6 weeks. To this day, some 12 years after my acne first began, I still suffer with my oily, acne-prone skin. My skin never stopped being sensitive or acne-prone and that can be really frustrating at times when I just wish I could have nice skin like everyone else. However, more times than I can now count, I have been told how amazing my skin looks. Friends, family and complete strangers remark on it often. When it's good, it is great. I truly am lucky and I try to keep that in mind when it DOES act up.

Some important take-aways from my experience: everyone's skin is unique. What works for me may not work for someone else and what works for them may not work for me. That is OKAY! I cannot let that frustrate me. Trial and error can be time-consuming, frustrating and very expensive, but once you find what works for you, it feels so good to have great skin (though it will act up at times -- it is still your same skin, it is just "under control").

I had to take pills for my skin for years. They made me even more susceptible to sun-damage (scary when you have close family members who have had cancerous spots on their skin that had to be removed), and because they are basically anti-biotics, its just not great to constantly pump those into your body for years. You also become immune to them after awhile (DO NOT abuse medications, it will come back to haunt you. If you do not trust your doctor, find one that you do trust -- it is vital to your overall health!), and they can cause other health problems by killing off the healthy bacteria in your body. This is ultimately what led me to stop taking the pills (my doctor agreed that I needed to start tapering them off sooner of later -- always do this with your doctor's supervision and follow their instructions carefully).

Using one product may cause a new problem to form -- this has been my experience with the topical ointment I use on my skin still to this day. I try not to use it more than once or twice a week in dryer months and no more than 3-4 times a week in warmer and more-humid months as it causes my skin to become quite dry and irritated, leaving me with a horrible combination of dry, flaky patches, gross oily patches, and of course, the occasional acne cysts (usually on my chin -- chin acne is typically thought of as being caused by hormones).

To this end I had to begin a new hunt -- for exfoliators and moisturizers that would help my cranky skin behave while not adding to the problems I already had (acne and oiliness).

If you have oily skin, you've probably learned, like I did, that you can't just put any old moisturizer on your skin. In fact, you may avoid it all together like I did for many years before I realized that oily skin is really just dry skin that is throwing a tantrum.

I spent hundreds of dollars on products that did not work for me in the quest for products that did. Being able to enjoy stores like Sephora, who have an amazing return policy, made it a little easier. Though, personally, I hate being harassed by the employees who want to suggest this product and that -- no offense, but when you know you have particular skin, hearing from someone who DOESN'T have that kind of skin is NOT helpful. No one knows your skin better than you!

Some things I have learned about my oily and acne-prone skin:

1. Under no circumstances do I put any kind of "heavy duty" cream or lotion moisturizer on my face ever for any reason. No matter how nice and luxurious it may look or how many other beauty bloggers rave about it, it is not worth the money or the cost to my skin when it causes a breakout!
2. My skin NEEDS moisture, and the best way to get it is to use a hydrating SERUM, which sinks INTO my skin instead of sits ON TOP of my skin. Any good dermatologist or esthetician will tell you the same!
3. Eating a lot of junk or processed food will make my skin worse, even if my acne is considered "hormonal"
4. Drinking lots of water each and every day does help to keep my skin clear and glowing, which is just what I want!
5. Washing my face each and every day is not enough to keep the acne or oil at bay -- that's life, that's okay. You just learn what works for you, and stick to a regimen. Consistency is key!
6. Scrubbing your face with harsh scrubs, peels or masks can cause more damage and dryness. Be gentle with your skin, it is delicate! I limit mine to once a week for special skin treatments like these.
7. ALWAYS wash your makeup off. I am the queen of laziness sometimes. But at the end of the day, if my skin breaks out because I am not taking care of it, I have no one to blame but myself. I but jumbo-boxes of makeup wipes from Costco so that I have no excuse not to get the makeup off and then give my face the good wash it deserves.
8. Wash your washcloths after each use! Ever wonder why they come in such big packs of 8-12 washcloths? That's because after just ONE use they are full of dead skin cells, dirt and other grimy bacteria. Throw that dirty thing in the wash and get out a clean one!
9. YOU ARE BEAUTIFUL even when your skin misbehaves. Don't forget it! :)
10. It can be hard to find the solution that works for your skin. It took me almost 5 years to find my solution and here more than 7 years later I am still using a system that works for me, even though it has been tweaked as I get older. Your skin ages and changes, be ready to change with it -- it's the only skin you'll ever have, so love it well!


And finally, here are some products that have worked for me and that I benefit from, outside of my prescription ointment:

1. Mario Badescu! I love his moisturizers because they actually absorb into my skin instead of sit on top of it. My favorites are his herbal hydrating serum and his aloe moisturizer with SPF 17.
2. Kate Somerville makes lots of great products for acne-prone skin! I love her ExfoliKate Gentle and her Sulfur treatment.
3. Murad also makes some great sulfur products: I love their sulfur mask and their sulfur treatment
4. GlamGlow clearing mud -- expensive as heck but really helps clear blackheads!
5. Neutrogena acne face wash (I like the grapefruit and the redness reducing ones -- they smell good and are great standbys!)

The type of products that work best for my oily, acne-prone skin are salicylic acid face wash, benzoyl peroxide treatment gel, and sulfur spot-treatments.


What are your favorite skin products to use with your oily skin? What has worked for you and what hasn't? I'd love to hear your skincare story, too!



xo,
M



PS:

PLEASE remember that I AM NOT a doctor nor an esthetician -- if you have questions or concerns about your skin please ask a professional who can help you find a solution.

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